Het patroon van mijn vorige jurk baseerde ik op dat van de Crepe. Ik zei toen al dat ik nog een paar dingetjes wilde aanpassen: de halslijn verlagen en de mouwtjes iets minder ehm, aanwezig maken. Afgelopen week had ik eindelijk weer tijd om achter de naaimachine te kruipen en dus ging ik aan de slag.
The pattern of my last dress was based on the Crepe. In that post I said I wanted to make some adjustments: lowering the neckline and make the sleeves a bit less, well, big. Last week I finally had some sewing time and so I got to work.
Efficient patroonknippen / efficient pattern cutting
Ik naaide het bovenlijf in elkaar en keek of het paste. Toen zag ik het: ik had mijn Crepe-achtige patroon omgetoverd in een Cambie-achtig patroon!
I sewed up the bodice and tried it on for fit. And then I noticed: I had changed my Crepe-ish pattern in a Cambie-ish pattern!
Eerst was ik eigenlijk een beetje teleurgesteld. Ik heb twee Cambies gemaakt (hier en hier) en die passen beide prima, dus het voelde een beetje alsof al dat patroontekenwerk voor niks was geweest. Maar ja, uiteindelijk gaat het om de jurk die eruit voorkomt en de ervaring van het doen, en toen kon ik wel over die eerste teleurstelling heen stappen.
At first I was a little disappointed. I have made two Cambie dresses (here and here) and they fit pretty good, so it felt a bit like all that pattern drafting was for nothing. But then I realised in the end it is about the resulting dress and the learning experience and I was able to get past that first bit of disappointment.
Ik besloot wel om de rok te plooien in plaats van te rimpelen, wat ik eerst van plan was, om de gelijkenis met de Cambie te verminderen. Na heel wat rekenwerk over hoeveel plooien en hoe breed die moesten zijn (waar ik uiteraard compleet niet uit kwam) besloot ik het maar met de vrije hand te doen. Het is niet helemaal symmetrisch maar dat valt niet op.
I did decide to pleat the skirt rather than to gather it, to decrease the resemblance to the Cambie. After doing a lot of math on the amount and width of the pleats (and not getting it) I decided to just wing it. It’s not perfectly symmetrical but that doesn’t really show.
Uiteindelijk denk ik dat dit de best passende jurk is die ik tot nu toe heb gemaakt. Ik ben er zo blij mee!
In the end I think this is the best fitting dress I have made so far. I am so, so happy with it!
Sorry voor de kreukels, maar ja dat krijg je met een katoenen jurk. Waarschijnlijk ziet ‘ie er vaker zo uit dan perfect gestreken. En ook voor de crappy foto’s, maar dat was alles wat ik voor elkaar kreeg bij Marijn. Voor degenen onder jullie met een gewillig fotograferende vriend/man: wees er maar zuinig op 😉
Sorry about the wrinkles, but well, this is what you get with a cottong dress. It will probably look like this way more than perfectly ironed. Also sorry for the crappy pics. For those with a boyfriend/husband willing to take loads of pics: consider yourself lucky 😉
Close-up van de figuurnaden. Als ik heel kritisch ben denk ik dat die aan de zijkant nog wel een halve centimeter naar beneden kan. De hoogte van de apex is anderhalf jaar geleden opgemeten door mijn naai-juf, sindsdien ben ik wat afgevallen en wat ouder geworden, dus misschien zijn de dames ook wel wat gezakt.
Close-up of the bust darts. If I’m really nitpicky I think I could probably lower the side dart about a half a centimeter. The apex height was measured by my sewing teacher a year and a half ago, and since then I lost some weight and got a bit older, so maybe the ladies sagged a bit.
Een close-up van de halslijn en de belegdelen. Voor het beleg gebruikte ik Jenny haar tutorial, waarin ze heel goed uitlegt hoe je een mooie afwerking krijgt. Ik wist al wel hoe dat moest als je een middenachter rits hebt, maar dit keer deed ik de rits in de zijnaad en had ik dus geen naad op de rug.
Another close-up of the neckline and the facings. I made an all-in-one facing and sewed it in as per Jenny’s fabulous tutorial. There is no center back seam in this dress because the zipper is in de side seam. I thought and thought about how to put in the facing when I remembered her great ‘making facings your friend’ series.
De stof komt overigens van hier. Voor de stashbusters onder jullie: niet klikken!
The fabric is from here. For the stashbusters among you: don’t click this link!
Al met al begin ik patroontekenen steeds leuker te vinden. Ik ben wel benieuwd: maak jij ook je eigen patronen? En zo ja, waar haal je de inspiratie vandaan?
I’m really starting to like patterndrafting. I’m curious: do you draft your own patterns too? And if so, where do you get your inspiration for them?
IngeMaakt 
Beautiful dress and fabric. Like the idea with the pleats. I have drafted two skirt patterns and it is indeed very interesting , not to mention the joy of making something from scratch.
Thank you! It is such an interesting process and kind of mindblowing actually, that just a few lines and measurements can become a skirt or a dress.
Such a lovely dress! Looks wonderful on you. Nice colours. I’m tempted to give that pattern a go now.
Thank you Debbie! If you are considering the Cambie: do give it a try. It’s a lovely pattern!
Another great dress! This color looks great on you. And I was able to avoid clicking the link 😉
I haven’t drafted, but I have copied a few RTW clothes and kind of mixed and matched to find a new style. It’s fun but a lot of work!
Thanks Joanne! Well done on avoiding the link 😉 haha that website is such a timesuck. Is there an online synonym for window shopping?
I can imagine copying a garment to a pattern is a lot of work, but rewarding indeed!
I don’t know if there’s a synonym for window shopping online. If not, there should be!
Are you enjoying the heat wave?
I am actually! too bad the long weekend is over… How about you?
It was great! Family day yesterday and a nice lazy day today. Just having a bit of trouble sleeping in the heat. Back to work tomorrow indeed…
wauw… mooi, en je plooien zijn goed gelukt!
Dank je wel! Ik ben er ook wel tevreden mee 🙂 volgende keer plooi ik denk ik wel de andere richting op aan de achterkant, ik denk dat dat wat meer afkleedt daar haha.
Love it! The fabric is devine!
Thank you 🙂
Inge, you are on FIRE lately! This is a gorgeous dress in its own right, but that you drafted it yourself makes it so much more special. The fit is incredible & you should be well pleased with yourself 🙂
There’s a different satisfaction that comes from sewing a pattern you drafted yourself, isn’t there? I have several patterns I drafted myself but the ones I’m most proud of are those I made from my pants block. I’ve made many versions now but it still kind of blows my mind every time I finish a pair & they fit so well- so exciting! As far as inspiration goes, I often trawl through my pinterest boards, looking at styles, details etc. from RTW clothes and other patterns.
Lastly…. SO pleased you found the tutorials useful! Facings just make for the neatest finish don’t they! Glad they made sense :p
Thank you Jenny!! It is indeed a different satisfaction. I think this has to do with the fact that you’re not executing somebody else’s idea but just making up your own design idea. That must be even better with pants – I mean, when do we even find pants that fit right everywhere?
Your tutorial was the best, it was very, very clear and after reading it entirely and then following the steps and reading along with them it gave me a feeling of being in control and knowing what I was doing. Thank you so much for that!
Mooi !!!! En ik ben helemaal weg van de stof !!!
Dank je wel Jacomijn! Hij is nog te koop… 😉
I am so impressed you drafted your pattern, that’s amazing. Really amazing. I don’t think this dress is too Cambie-ish, the back detail is very pretty and I think the pleated skirt is super flattering. This dress just screams “Inge”, it’s so your style especially with that gorgeous fabric. I hope you name this dress the Inge dress.
Thank you so much Kat! I must say I do really, really like this dress 😊
Gorgeous dress and well done on the self-drafting. I don’t do it too often although have traced off a few RTW garments and made my own versions, or have started with a pattern and made so many changes it is nothing like the original 🙂
Thanks Lizzie 🙂 I do remember your traced shorts, they were pretty awesome. I think changing an excisting pattern is basically pattern drafting too, after all it is the same thing. Only difference is you didn’t make the base pattern but I don’t thin that matters that much.
The fabric is absolutly marvellous! I love it. It`s well fitting. I rarely draft patterns for myself. I don`t like to make muslins. But i make a lot of pattern drafting for my baby girl. So you don`t waist that much fabric if you fail once… 😉
Thanks 😊 I don’t like to make muslins either so I just use some replaceable fabric and hope for the best hehe. Baby clothes do take just a little fabric don’t they?